I have a friend who’s going to Japan in December. She asked me for my advice and recommendations on where to go and what to see. She’s planning on visiting Kyoto, Hiroshima and Miyajima. I encouraged her to spend a couple of days in Tokyo, too, if she could. I mentioned on Twitter I was writing an epic email, and a couple of people requested that I post it to my blog. So, for your delectation, I present it, edited slightly for clarity.
Where to stay
We stayed two different places in Kyoto. The first place we stayed was a ryokan, which is the more traditional/family style inn. It was the Ryokan Shimizu.
We loved staying there. The people were so friendly and we were able to try a traditional Japanese breakfast there. It was very close to the train station, which made getting around rather easy (it’s a hub for the buses, too). We all stayed in one room (me with my parents) and slept on tatami/futons (not like futons in the US – really like pads). It was quite comfortable! They also did cultural programming every night. Calligraphy, Japanese gift wrapping with the cloth, origami … I think they had one night on kimonos!
The other hotel was tiny and right down the street from the station. I have no idea what the name was. We had planned on going on to another town, but the typhoon stranded us, so we just walked around to various hotels until we found one that had a rate we liked :). It was commodious, but lacked any of the flavor of the ryokan.
What to see
As for what I would recommend in Kyoto, I would say go to these temples:
Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion)
There’s a Zen temple, Ryoanji with a stone garden next to Kinkakuji. We were underwhelmed by it, but maybe it would interest you?
Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion)
Kiyomizudera – and when you go there, make sure to pay the 100 yen to go down in the thing. You walk down some stairs and hold on to a chain of wooden balls. It gets darker and darker as you go through. It’s supposed to represent the birthing process, and you can make a wish when you get to a stone in the center.
Also, we loved walking through the Nishiki Market (or at least, my mom and I did :P).
Take the train 5 minutes to the Fushimi Inari Shrine, which is the place with all the red torii gates (shown in the image above). Fantastic place. I think they are lit at night in the winter, adding another magical element to an already otherworldly place.
I think we spent 5 nights in Kyoto. It was really great, because it gave us time to get adjusted to the time and rest every day (my parents napped and I wrote in my journal).
My friend Yossi has a delightful restaurant, Colori Caffe, outside the tourist areas. Please go visit her and say hi from me if you do! If you want the directions, please contact me and I will send them to you. It’s very easy to get to.
Hiroshima and Miyajima
I have no idea where we stayed in Hiroshima. We used the TripAdvisor site to find a place. We didn’t book it until we were in Japan. I couldn’t tell you AT ALL! It’s so funny. It was a very pleasant place, so my takeaway is, trust the reviews on TripAdvisor :).
Miyajima is the island. You could spend the night there, or just do it as a day trip (which is what we did). I would recommend going to Miyajima after the Peace Museum. Being in Hiroshima is intense, as you can imagine. The island is a beautiful respite.
As for flying in to Kyoto or Tokyo, I don’t know if there are any direct flights to Kyoto anymore (from Seattle). I think one reason we went with Tokyo was that it was more direct and cost less (even including the hotel). We stayed here. It was right outside the Tokyo Station and was a fantastic oasis in the middle of the city. The staff were super friendly and helpful.
I would recommend talking to people and ask if they’ve been to Tokyo, and what they would recommend doing there. I think we had a kind of odd/different experience. I had some friends I’d worked with at Amazon, and we met them for lunch one day. We did some shopping. We did take a day trip to Kamakura to see the giant Buddha.
OH! Also, the department stores have restaurants on the top floors that are very reasonable for eating dinner. This is true in Kyoto and Tokyo. We also ate at izakayas (bars), but they can be VERY smoky. My mom and I loved eating at them, though.
The Japan Rail pass was fantastic. It works on any JR line – which means we were able to use it to get around Tokyo itself, as long as we stayed on the JR line. It can also be used on certain buses. If you are taking the shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto and back, I think it pays for itself, but you should check the math on that. I bought mine from a place in downtown Seattle. I think I went to the office and placed my order. Came back an hour later and the vouchers were ready!
You can see the pictures I took, organized by location.
I think that’s everything I can think of for now! If you have ANY questions, or something doesn’t make sense, please feel free to ask me. Also, if you start making reservations and have difficulty, let me know. I seem to remember there were a few hiccups we had.
Great advice! I second going to Tokyo. When my husband and I did our honeymoon, we had arrangements set up through a travel agency (I know that sounds old-fashioned, but they were awesome). We said we didn’t want to go to Tokyo because we figured one big crowded cosmopolitan city is much like another. They argued for Tokyo and they were right: it’s full of unique neighborhoods, awesome shops and restaurants, and cool museums and other sights. We wound up wishing we had more time there. The only bad call on our part was going to the Tokyo National Museum (it would have been on my list for a much longer trip, but it wasn’t a good use of our short time in Tokyo given how many other excellent Asian art museums we’ve been to). There’s so much going on in Tokyo–for example, I ran across an promotion for an art show in a magazine I bought at a bookstore, and we were able to go to it. It featured several of my favorite artists. Can’t think when I’d ever get another chance to see their works in person!
They also talked us into a couple of places that are less well known to non-Japanese tourists but are popular in Japan, such as Koyasan and Kurashiki. Those wound up being highlights of the trip.
Thank you! Fantastic!
I went to Koya-san with my parents and I fell in love with Okunoin. I could have spent my whole time there.
Yeah, I’d like to go back into Okunoin at night when the lanterns are lit. We took our trip in the winter, which was overall fabulous (Miyajima wasn’t crowded), but going out at night on Koyasan was the one thing that I just couldn’t bring myself to do. Brrr!
It was quite warm in September, so we had no problem going out at night. Actually, if anything, it was better, because the mosquitoes weren’t trying to eat me alive. Ha!